I really like this town. It is pretty and a pleasure to visit. But there are things that trouble me. Or, rather, things that stimulate thought. I have spent some time in the Jewish Quarter. You can still get a sense of the small shops and houses that jostled with grand synagogues in the years before WWII. At the same time there are trendy bars and clubs. The area is becoming the Shoreditch of Krakow and its Jewish history diluted to a Fiddler on the Roof, sanitised with sentiment. Restaurants themed as Jewish shops from the 1920s cannot convey the reality of livelihoods hard won and the terrible events that were to come.
And now, on to Dresden as we head West.